Begum Samru

 

Begum Samru

During my early days of professional life, as young engineer I was residing at Badarpur power station complex in the year 1982. There were only two DTC buses used to ply on the Mathura Road. It was close to Haryana border. Locals often tell that they are going to “Delhi” while boarding the bus. One 405 used to go to Lajpat Nagar and the other 415 used to go to Chandni Chowk in Old Delhi. Our favourite haunting ground was Bhagirath Place in Chandni Chowk area, which was famous for electrical goods at cheap rate. Those were the days when branded products were unheard of. Locally make cassette players, heaters, coolers, lights, chandeliers, electric gadgets used to sell like hotcakes in numerous shops located under one roof.

Little did I know that this palace was the residence of a powerful lady with a stature of four and half feet, built a fortune in her lifetime and was also a deft power broker in Mughal court. Her name was Begum Samru. Born as a Muslim with name Farzana in 1753 in Meerut, after her father’s death landed as a courtesan at a tender age in Chandni Chowk.

Though her name is not very familiar to common Indians, her life history is fascinating that a nautch girl in a kotha amassed fortune equivalent to three lacs fifty thousand crores (in today’s value), besides commanding great admiration for her poise, grace and ability to handle complex political issues besides heading a strong army consisting many European fighters.  

The second half of eighteenth century was a tumultuous period for Mughal empire under the rule of Shah Alam II. In 1761 Ahmad Shah Abdali defeated Marathas in 3rd battle of Panipat and plundered Delhi. Maratha was a rising power, who virtually ruled over Mughal King. In 1764 combined force of  Shah Alam II, Mir Qasim of Bengal and Suja Ud Daula of Awadh lost in the crucial battle of Buxar and forced to give diwani right of Bengal-Bihar-Orissa to East India Company. 

In this backdrop many European mercenaries (English, Dutch, French, Portuguese with superior arms and military strategy)

came to India with battalion to be inducted into the native army of rich Indian kings to take part in the infighting among the numerous rulers. 

Walter Reinhardt, a French warrior who earlier served with Mir qusim, nawab of Bengal switched side and started serving shah Alam II. At Chandni Chowk he fell in love with Farzana and eventually married her. He was 42 and Farzana was 14. Under his guidance Samru learned horse riding and use of fire arms. As an intelligent and quick learner she picked up warfare strategy as well and had inherent negotiating skill which helped her later period after death of her husband in 1778 to led a strong army of five thousand soldiers consisting hundred odd European fighters. Reinhardt acquired a big fortune from Shah Alam II

by way of getting principality of Sardhana, a place near Meerut town, when he drove out Jats from Agra.

After Reinhardt’s death in 1883 Shikh leader Baghel Singh laid a siege in Delhi

with thirty thousand troops, is a area which later on named as ‘Tis Hazari’. Begum Samru negotiated with Sikhs on behalf of Mughal emperor, after which they left Delhi. Begum Samru was highly respected in Mughal court and one of very few outsider who had direct access to Mughal harem.

Last year on my way to Haridwar I took a halt at Sardhana. You need to take the road running parallel to upper Ganga canal before Modinagar, and cross the canal to reach the old town of Sardhana. Begum Samru converted to Roman Catholic and built India’s biggest church known as ‘Basilica of Our Lady of Graces’.

She even sent photo of the Basilica to pope in Rome.  She was known for throwing lavish ballroom parties to eminent people of Mughal court and rich Europeans. Despite close to Delhi (80km), hardly any one knows it’s existence. Even today both the palace and the Basilica maintained superbly.

The Basilica is located inside a vast lawn and beautiful garden. The local priest told that on first Sunday in the month of November devotees from all over India come here to seek the divine blessing of virgin Merry and the ritual known as’Feast of our Lady of graces’. 

There is also an elegant palace nearby where she used to stay. The palace is around a kilometre away from the Basilica. It has a huge complex.

One part is converted to school. The old style two story building has wide staircases with rooms along the corridor with high ceilings. 

In 1786 one Gulam Qudir, who was once close to  shah Alam II, became rebel, dethroned Shah Alam and blinded him. It was black day for Mughal rule which was already confined to Delhi only. Gulam Qudir invited Begam Samru and tried to become friendly with her. As a great strategist and loyal to Mughal court, she came to Red Fort, pretended to switching loyalty , but at night her Army came and rescued Shah Alam II. Later on Madhaji Scindia, the Maratha Peshwa, become regent to Shah Alam. Due to this gallantry and loyalty, she was awarded the title 'zebun nissa’ meaning -ornamental among all of women. She was gifted the house (presently Bhagirath Palace) which was closest to Red Fort .

There is another place in Gurgaon which has connection with Begum Samru. The place is in a park inside an old colony in sector 40, Gurgaon. It was difficult for me to get the exact location as locals are not aware of it. This area known as Jharsa-Badshapur was once ruled by Begum Samru.

There is a two hundred year old memorial of a French soldier named as Jean Etinne who served under Begum Samru. His epitaph mentions he died in 5th June 1821. 

Begum Samru died at Sardhana in 1836 at an age 83. Her life is unique in the sense that in eighteenth century, women in India mostly hide themselves under veil, doing only household job, where as she by her sheer grit, determination and skill got the admiration not only from her army, even from Mughal empire. After death of Shah Alam II, Akbar II ascended the throne and he used to respect her like his mother. 

This is the fascinating story of little known Begum Samru. The background of her name Samru is also interesting. Her husband has a somber look. He was known to his friends as Le Somber. From this she acquired the name Begum Samru.

Debadatta 

27/02/25