A walk to explore Delhi’s lesser known monuments

Me, Subhashis, Bijan and Prasun joined together for a long awaiting meet cum heritage walk in south Delhi’s Mehrauli area in a foggy early December morning in 2023.

It is almost unbelievable that within the bursting megapolis, there exists a primitive forest land with scattered ruins dated back to thousand years, tagged as the “First city of Delhi. The area I am referring to is know as Sanjay Van and Mehrauli Archeological park encompassing the majestic Qutub Minar. Both of them are actually part of Aravalli ridge, an extension of Aravalli hills. The distinct difference is in the outlook, Sanjay Van is more primitive - like a no frill tribal girl where as Archeological Park is manicured, fashionable city girl as it boasts of beautiful parks, grass covered area and well laid out walkways. The common among the two is the various historical tomb, bowli (water bodies) besides the serenity of the place.

Let me introduce to my other friends, Subhashis (ex IIT, D professor currently teaching at Ashoka university), Prasun (ex Power sector professional) and Bijan (retired from SAIL, Bhilai). We met at Hauz Khas metro station.

It was little over 10 o’clock in the morning when we came out from through gate no.1 of Hauz Khas metro station where Shubhasis was waiting. For last leg connectivity auto is the best option. Driver was reluctant to take four persons, but agreed ultimately when we promised to pay more. We headed towards Meharauli area by Aurobindo Marg, took a right turn near Qutub and reached our destination where the road becomes narrow near a square. Shubhasis shown us some fine dine restaurants and handicraft shops on one side of the wide road before we reached our destination. All three sides have houses laid side by side, built over small land and the narrow lanes conspicuous with jumbled up electric cables hanging from wayside light poles. The area looks so different from the NCR city landscape with well laid out array of skyscrapers. It reminded me of Delhi which I saw in eighties when many south Delhi localities sprang-up with unauthorised construction.

Defying the hustle and bustle of chaotic traffic and locals,

on my right, at a slight elevation a majestic tomb, shining over the morning sunlight, made with stone, standing tall, exuberantly reflecting thousand years heritage of the capital city. Entry point notification shows that this 16th century Tomb protected by ASI, but maintenance and renovation of centuries old structure is almost except few patchy lime-mortar work. This is known as Adham Khan’s tomb or popularly as Bhool Bhulaiyan. This octagon shape lesser known tomb was built in the year 1562 by Akbar to commemorate the death of his wet nurse Maham Anga and her own son Adham Khan. The storyline behind the tomb is tragic as well as horrific . It is said that Adham Khan killed one of Akbar’s favourite general Atagha Khan. Enraged by the incident Akbar threw him to death from the ramparts of Agra Fort. The incident was so shocking to Maham Anga that she breathed her last within few days after her son’s death. Though it was built in Mughal era, the architecture and shape resembles that of tombs build during sultanate period who ruled Delhi before the Mughals.

Shubhasis shown us the traditional symbol of Mughal architecture in one corner of the arched entry gate to the mausoleum.

The hexagonal symbol circumscribing the lotus has Jewish origin. This is known as ’seal of Solomon’. According to Hebrew bible Solomon was the son of David and was the ruler of Israel. Later on Arab Muslims also adopted the symbol as a amulet to prevent evil spirit. The lotus embossed inside the hexagon symbolised purity and grace and is referenced in the Quran to illustrate the beauty of Allah's creation. Interestingly for past hundred years with the growing rift between Jews and Muslims, this dual symbol no more used by Muslim world.

Entry inside main mausoleum is restricted by installing iron rod gates.

North of Adham Khan’s tomb lies the Sanjay van and on slightly north east we could view the Qutub minar.

Just opposite to Agarwal sweets in the busy intersection, a small serpentine lane named Darga road leads

to Hazrat qutubbudin Bhaktiyar Kaki’s tomb.

There is a small sign board at the entry point of the lane. It is only a walking distance of 500 meters from Bhool bhulaiya. As I approached near the tomb, I could recognise the place where I came last year to attend the unique festival of “phool Walon ki Sair”, symbolising the cultural unity of different faith.

(Placards used for the procession)

Every year in the month of October the festival is celebrated spanning a full week. Both Hindu and Muslims offer floral tribute to kaki’s tomb and nearby Jogomaya temple. This Mughal era ritual was terminated by colonial power in 1942 at the time of ‘quit India’ movement. The ritual again resumed in 1962 by the then PM Nehru. Aroma of biriyani from food stalls and smell of rose petal from small shops

selling flowers and Chadar, mingled together filled the by lane. It is not the prayer time. We could comfortably walked inside the tomb. A narrow ally leads to Khaja Baktiar kaki’s tomb. I noticed that few ladies offering prayer through grilled marble window.

There is a sign board forbidding ladies to go near the main shrine. I asked a cleric about this strange rule. He told me that Qutubuddin kaki was betrayed by some lady. As a result women are not allowed near the grave. While coming back near the shrine entry walkway heard few people are talking in Bengali with Bangladeshi accent. Being curious I stopped and asked them from where they are coming. They are pilgrims from Gajipur, Dhaka. They crossed border in Assam.

After visiting few dargahs in Assam, they are now in Delhi. They stayed in Nizamuddin Auliya’s Dargah for few day before coming here. In the month of December devotees go to Ajmer Shariff on pilgrimage trip by walking. They are waiting in the Dargah to participate. I asked them about the upcoming general election in Bangladesh. They told me that every day there is clashes between ruling party Awami league and opposition party BNP. They informed me in case of a fair election chances that BNP will get majority seat.

I knew about one entry point to Mehrauli Archeological park which is very close to Dargah.

The main entry gate is somewhere adjacent to main road near Qutub complex. We entered the park which boast of some magnificent old monuments of sultanate and Mughal era.

We came to Raja ki baowli.

On the roadside some artisans were preparing material for restoration of the heritage building. Few days back I read about restoration of Metcafe house (located here) in newspaper few days back. I was curious to know what ingredients they use to prepare the base material. ASI is getting the work done through a contractor. I met supervisor Rajeev Pathak who told me like earlier days before cement came, the basic ingredients are lime, sand and powdered brick (surki).

Then they mix methi dana, urad dal, bel pani and jaggery.

My friends are already ahead of me. I catch hold of them in ‘Raja ki baoli’. Delhi has many baoli (step well) built centuries back to preserve water for drinking and bathing. Usually built near mosques so that people can bath before offering prayer. This one is a three story step-well. The cool stone structure stands serene and silent. The name is deceptive, as it's name is actually derived from 'rajbirs' or 'mistris'--the term for masons--that it got in the early 20th century due to the presence of masons who had moved in permanently into the deserted mosque. This was built in Lodi era.

Opposite to Raja ki baoli there is a graveyard of unknown people.

We moved ahead to reach Jamali Kamali. It is believed that

the structure built in first half of sixteenth century, had been constructed on the dwelling of Qutbuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki by Shaikh Jamali Kamboh, also known as Jalal Khan, a renowned Sufi saint. Folklore says Kamali was his disciple. Rumour also hint at LGBTQ connection between them! The mosque is single-aisled in contrast to the large congregational mosques built by the early sultans of the Delhi Sultanate. This type of single-aisled mosque was popular during the Lodi period and also under the Mughals. The complex is often described as one of the most haunted places in Delhi, with stories of unexplained sounds, shadowy figures, and unsettling feelings reported by visitors.

The tomb is inside a gated complex. Last time when I came with a group, the security opened the lock for us to visit the tomb.

We moved ahead through well manicured lawn to go to Metcafe house. Somehow I feel the well decorated modern garden with trimmed trees and flower beds gives the area a modern look and not somehow fit with Delhi’s heritage structures.

Climbing up steep stair cases to reach the top platform of Metcafe house, we could see clear view of Qutub minar, hardly at a distance less than a kilometre.

It was built by sir Thomas Metcafe (1795–1853), a civil servant, when he was the governor general’s last British resident (agent) at the Mughal court of emperor Bahadur Shah Zafar. He purchased it from Mughal emperor to built a summer retreat.

After finishing Meharauli Archeological Park, we took an auto towards Sanjay Van. The driver was a young man and talkative. Like most of Delhi’s notorious auto drivers he took the wrong side to avoid jam and in the process halted traffic for good five minutes. It is common in Delhi. DTC buses and other incoming traffic manoeuvred to give way to little cockroach of Delhi road, an infamous name for Delhi three wheeler.

We entered Sanjay Van, the last stretch of Aravali hills, also known as Lal kot. Lal Kot is the earliest known fortified city of Delhi, built in the mid-11th century CE by the Tomar Rajput king Anangpal II around 1052 CE. It is considered the first historical city of Delhi, predating even Qutub Minar.

A small walkway lead us to Ashiq Alla Darga. It is a lesser known Sufi shrine known for serenity and spiritual abode. We saw handful Muslim devotees also.

We went to the rooftop and could see the dense forest all around. Some part of broken wall made of Delhi quartzite was visible, reminding the earliest settlement of fortified city. Subhashis quite often come here to jog. He told us that Sanjay Van has the tag of ‘haunted place’ to Delhites. He narrated the following incident.

“Once I had gone for a run in Sanjay van (I must’ve run a few thousand Kms there), and was returning from Mehrauli. It was getting dark. Somewhere near the Lalkot walls I saw a young girl standing under a tree in sportswear. She called out as I passed her and requested if she could run with me. When I asked क्या हो गया? she said that she too had come for a run, and suddenly got reminded of the Sanjay Van ghost and got scared as it got a bit dark. I ran with her to JNU (she turned out to be a student there), and reminded her the people may think that she is the Sanjay Van ghost if she makes it a habit of standing under trees in the dark.”

We walked through the forest to come to other end which is known as Qutub Institutional area. It was around three o’clock we reached Shubhasis’s quarter inside IIT Delhi campus.

The sprawling lawn behind the quarter with peacocks roaming and chirping of parakeet and few other birds, appears to be a dream residence for middle class citizens of Delhi. Subhashis, a benevolent host ordered plenty of authentic Mughlai dishes from ‘Karims’,